Favourite Driving Itineraries to Orkney

Part 3: Inverness to Thurso / Gills Bay or Scrabster

A9 road
Distance: 111 miles, 3 hours 15 minutes

If you are catching a ferry the same night, be sure to depart Inverness by 1pm.

Don’t miss Croick Church, with its evocative messages scratched in the glass windows by the families dispossessed of their lands during the Highland Clearances . It is shocking to see such poignant and well scripted messages written by these refugees as they sheltered in the churchyard.

Take the A836 towards Bonar Bridge but at Ardgay just before the town turn left and follow sign posts … don’t lose faith, keep going along this little single track road.

Return and pass through Bonar Bridge, then pass Dornoch and on to Dunrobin Castle, the luxury seat of the Dukes of Sutherland.

Just beyond the castle there is a layby on the left and a path to the Carn Liath – Broch, pass by. If you are not stopping at the castle you can look back from here to view it for free.

The road now follows a bleak and mystical coastal strip between the hills and the North Sea, depending upon the weather. It becomes narrower and is not to be hurried. Enjoy the quality of the light and watch out for crazy drivers trying to overtake.

You can find refreshments and a visitor centre in Helmsdale but otherwise there is not much to hold your attention. If you have time you can go panning for gold up the valley!

As you head into the northern tip (called Caithness) the history and archaeology gets more like Orkney and less busy, with a number of fascinating sites.

Worth looking at are:

• Hill O’ Many Stains (stones arranged in mysterious alignment) -- these are very accessible
• Whaligoe Steps
• Hut circles and cairns at Loch of Yarrows, Achnavianich / Loch Stemster, and Grey Cairns of Camster

The Viking influence is evident in the coastal castles and place names. Wick and Thurso hold little interest but have plenty of shops and supermarkets.

It would be a pity to rush past this area for the last ferry (7pm), so if possible stop the night and catch the first ferry next morning.

During summer, there is a 6am sailing from Gills Bay and Malcolm uses the good Youth Hostel nearby instead of paying for a B&B you are hardly going to stay in and miss breakfast.