I’m posting about it here as well because knowing and honing your strengths is a sound survival strategy. We’re also looking at developing team building activities blending our outdoors courses with StrengthsFinder to make for some memorable and hopefully very useful events.

Why knowing and using your strengths matters

If you know what you’re naturally good at, and do that every day, you are 300% more likely to be successful in your work and have a better quality of life.

That’s according to research conducted by Gallup of over 10 million people over the past 30 years. Out of these findings, they’ve developed StrengthsFinder, an online survey to assess your top 5 “strengths” out of 34 different possibilities.

What we’re interested in is: can StrengthsFinder help community projects and social enterprises be more successful?

My experience with StrengthsFinder

Having done the survey 3 times over the past 6 years, I can definitely say it’s helped me.

I first discovered the book when I worked for Sprint, a telecommunications corporation in Washington, D.C. Back in those days, I struggled to get up in time to go to work. I remember dreading the sound of the alarm clock, the shuffle to put a suit on.

Once I was at the office, my days seemed miles of meetings about nothing. I felt hamstrung by the slow pace of change, the lack of vision. Though initially I was promoted, eventually my performance started to suffer as I cared less and less about my job. I’m sure if I had stayed much longer, I would have been given the boot or quietly sidelined.

The biggest problem at my old job was that I rarely used my talents. I’m a big ideas person and a voracious learner, and there was a limited scope for either as a corporate website manager.

What happens when you don’t use your strengths?

By all accounts, my experience wasn’t unusual. In a recent poll of 1,000 people, among those who “strongly disagreed” or “disagreed” with the statement “At work, I have the opportunity to do what I do best every day”, not one single person felt emotionally engaged on the job.
According to Gallup’s research, if you don’t use your strengths at work, you likely:

• dread going to work
• have more negative than positive interactions with your colleagues
• treat your customers poorly
• tell your friends what an awful company you work for
• achieve less daily
• have fewer positive and creative moments

Have you ever been part of a volunteer project that seemed to sap your will to live? Meetings drag on, people bicker, action moves at a glacial pace. A good idea, something you’re excited about and eager to help work, slowly becomes a chore, something you dread.

This happens all too often, and I think part of it is because we as a group don’t know our own strengths — and we don’t know anyone else’s.

Using your strengths

With Five Senses and Touchwood Project, I get to use my strengths every day. This won’t mean much if you haven’t read the book, but mine are:

• Input (collecting information)
• Ideation (love of new ideas)
• Intellection (love of thinking — getting the theme here?)
• Learner (love of learning) and
• Futuristic (envisioning the future).

Gallup’s research shows people who use their strengths regularly in their jobs are “six times as likely to be engaged in their jobs, and three times as likely to report having a better quality of life in general.”

I have a personal belief in StrengthsFinder and what I think it can do for people. Now we’re interested in how to marry such an intellectual tool with the outdoor-based activities we’re already doing.

Have you taken the StrengthsFinder test?

If you’ve taken the StrengthsFinder test, post your results here if you feel like sharing them. I’d be particularly interested to hear how you think knowing your strengths has helped you and how you think it could help social enterprises and community projects be more effective.

When I first came to Orkney over 10 years ago, I was not impressed by the apparent walking opportunities. It has taken me years of exploring but now I can proudly say that has changed. I have found fantastic places to go, many off the beaten track where few, even locals, tread.

Orkney inland is dominated by fields of grass with fences of barbed wire or electricity, and more picturesque dry-stone walls.

I came from a background of exploring mountains of Wales, Scotland, Iceland, Europe and America. Big places with drama and diversity. Finding the great walks takes a little more effort – but it is worth it!

The obvious walking is around the coastline and starting from Stromness there are great coastal options.

There is Ness Point, walking out of the town past the golf course and along to the  Warebeth beach. You can continue along the coastline north, as far as Yesnaby, Skaill Bay (Skara Brae) and on to Birsay. Not in one day but it is possible and best with a following wind.

What I first encountered all those years ago was peedie (small) walks, often to view an ancient site then return to the car park. OK for car based folks unused to walking far but not very rewarding for me and not getting me close to nature, away from the crowds.

I like many was initially drawn to the cliffs in the west, to Yesnaby and Marwick, for drama. Then later to north Hoy. But what about inland? What about connecting these walks together, to form endless opportunities?

The walks in Orkney are spectacular! It is just not too obvious for visitors where else they can go, how to extend routes, turn them into day long circular walks, or how to avoid fences and irate bulls.

What should one do and not do? Signposts are cropping up, slowly but it is not obvious how to explore freely, without following a procession of other people.

This is where a local walking guide comes in handy.

[View with PicLens]

Weather

It never gets very warm or very cold but the wind can make you feel chilled, so always bring a woolly hat, windproof jacket, sunglasses and comfortable footwear. That will keep you warm and able to stay out for hours, summer or winter. Imagine a temperature of 10 – 15 degrees C. It does not get far above 20 degrees, ever, nor much below freezing in winter. Honest.

Where to go

To feel really comfortable walking in Orkney you best have either prior knowledge or some form of guide, leaflet or map. For all but the simplest (and most walked) routes, some basic map reading ability would help you a lot. There are many places you can legally walk but I will try to help you feel more comfortable and relaxed too.

Local knowledge

I am a qualified walking leader, geographer and teacher of outdoor skills, including navigation. I specialise in walking routes others don’t know or use, and evening and night walks, including natural navigation / star gazing. I live in West Mainland, Orkney.

I lead walks for all ages and abilities, encouraging long stops for views, rests in the heather and diversions to see what is round the corner. It is my job to adapt to you and your style, fitness and interests. I watch the weather and the time, whilst you enjoy yourselves.

[View with PicLens]

The best walks for a visitor to do

Over the coming weeks I shall expand upon this blog and give detailed information about my selection of the best walks to discover Orkney by.

First, let me introduce a few classics to start you off:

• Stromness town and Ness Point, returning via Innertown and Brinkies Brae to make a circular of various lengths, depending upon your day
• Ring of Brodgar to Stenness Standing Stones and Barnhouse archaeological site, via Ness of Brodgar archaeological dig (summer)
• Brough of Birsay, at low tide, including the Fisherman’s hut at Skipi Geo, followed by a burger from the van or ice cream from the local shop, whilst wandering around the Earl’s Palace in Birsay.
• Rackwick to Old Man of Hoy, returning to Rackwick (half day), or the full day walk from Moaness Pier (Stromness passenger ferry) through the hills to Rackwick, passing Berriedale, then up to St John’s Head (passing the Old Man), returning to the ferry via Cuilags.
• Papa Westray circular, via Knap of Howar and St Boniface church and Mull Head
• Fishermen’s Huts and Sand Geo, starting and returning to Marwick Bay car park, a delightful short walk, which can be extended over Marwick Head.

Some more popular walking locations

Here are few of the obvious walking locations. This is a list I will add to over the days and expand upon. Place names can be common, so I give grid references as general locational aides. Use online maps to locate, and ask me for guidance. [Note re Grid References, see bottom page]

• Ness Point – seals, boats ferries, tidal currents and view across the Sound to Graemsay and Hoy, best in simmer dim (25,07)
• Yesnaby -dramatic cliffs and geology accessible from the car park, popular for the rare Primula Scotica, the Castle (sea stack) and Broch (ruin, man made). (22,16)
• Binscarth Woods – a more sheltered location, ideal for windy days, where you can be amongst trees again and follow the historic road past Loch of Wasdale to Refuge corner (34,14)
• West Mainland Coastal – cliff top walking as close to the edge as you like with plenty of opportunity to watch seabirds and contemplate the power of the sea, eroding the sandstone in dramatic fashion (22,10)
• Marwick Head – cliffs and seabirds plus the Kitchener memorial, finishing with an amble along a quiet road back down to Marwick Bay, giving three slices of environments and their associated birdlife. Can link to Birsay too (22,25)
• Birsay – the edge of the land, with great waves breaking on the rocks, a sandy beach and causeway across to the headland, ideal for birdwatching and Viking history. A popular location in summer or when the tide is out but otherwise remote. West is Canada, north is Russia, beyond the Arctic (24,28)
• Gyre, Earl’s Bu and Orkneyinga saga centre – a lovely diverse little walk of coast and small woodland, with heritage and toilets too (34,04)
• Hoy Island – various walks including out to the Old Man of Hoy (17,00) and around Rackwick (20,99), mostly over wild open heath and tough terrrain. Ward Hill is the highest point on Orkney and is a delightful climb, which I link in with visiting the Dwarfie Stane (24,00)
• Muddisdale – easy walk through young trees planted in 2000 that gives access onto Wideford Hill, above Kirkwall (43,10)
• Wideford Burn – you can drive past this every time you visit the airport and notice nothing but once you get on this circular stroll, it is really a wonderful surprise (47,08)
• Mid Hill and Ward Hill – the high points of Mainland with superb views rewarding you for the effort of walking over grass, heather and peat. Various routes up but a little more tiring for casual walkers, you will likely have it all to yourself (33,08)
• Hall of Clestrain – a coastal walk can include this interesting site, best known for being the chldhood home of John Rae, Arctic Explorer and hero of mine. Walks can link up with open hillside, if you know your way (29,07)
• Gloup – easily reached from the car park in Deerness, this is a popular spot on the way to the hidden wonder that is the Brough of Deerness (59,08)
• Mull Head, Deerness – the above walk can be extended around to the  Covenanters’ Memorial for a long walk on turf with the cliffs ever present (59,08)
• Ring of Brodgar – too often rushed, the site is best appreciated by a slow walk beside Stenness Loch and meandering around the various mounds on site before strolling off to the Ness of Brodgar archaeological dig. I’d then continue to the Stenness Stones, amidst the World Heritage location yet too easily neglected when stuck in a vehicle (29,13)
• South Ronaldsay Island – wonderful coastal walking from any number of points which are so easily missed if one sticks to the central road.
• Hoxa and Sands o’ Wright – where your imagination can run wild as you imagine Vikings arriving into these sheltered bays with golden sands, views over Scapa Flow with Hoy beyond. Nice little sun traps too (42,93)
• Tomb of the Eagles – a good introduction to the coastline and farmland and an easy to follow track, out to the tomb itself and views over the North Sea, often with seals to watch close up (46,83)
• Cuween Hill – walking up to the chambered cairn may only take 5 minutes but it blows away the cobwebs. Superb views which can draw you onto the Hill of Lyradale, great open walking or a trekking route of you prefer horsepower (36,12)
• Westray Island - great walking island, from cliff tops to sandy shores, riddled with history and the best place for puffin watching
• Papa Westray Island – small enough to walk around but with points of interest like the oldest remaining house, Knap of Howar, older than Skara Brae yet you will likely have it all to yourself. Don’t miss the Holland Farm museum or the local shop too.
• Rousay Island – the heritage walk to Midhowe broch gives beautiful views south across Eynhallow and you can visit a series of chambered cairns, best of which is Taversoe Tuick. Inland walking to Muckle water will leave you entirely alone with nature.

The list can go on and on but you get the idea. We have but scratched the surface, however the best walks need planning, weather awareness and transport sorted out, which is why few of these and my other favourite walks get described much. I would love to take you on them, show you what Orkney really has to offer, including meadows, lanes and gardens.

Online maps

Why not plan before you intend to get going but without spending money or travelling with lots of extra maps, books, and unnecessary guides.

There are many and you will have your favourite but Multimap is good because you can view using the topographical Ordnance Survey maps: The best for walking in Orkney and the ones you’d buy to carry with you. So check them out online first, for free.

Ordnance Survey Maps

For detail, the 1:25,000 scale is best (shows field boundaries, fences, important if walking in Orkney countryside). This is not of much use to you unless you can read a map though. The 1:50,000 scale is an all purpose map packed with information but of limited use when walking other than on the most obvious tracks open hillside and coastline. If you have any doubts write to me for advice.

If you do want to price up the maps in preparation, there are below but please also think to buy them here in Orkney and help local business.

Mainland 1:50,000

Hoy 1:25,000

East Mainland 1:25,000

West Mainland 1:25,000

Guide books and online resources

Felicity Martin’s book

Mary Welsh’s book

Orkney Islands Council walking info – incomplete but still useful

VisitScotland Walks

4 Popular walks: Marwick Bay, Yesnaby, Deerness Gloup and Birsay

Geograph Pictures all over the UK

Freedom to Roam and right of access

Many people can be unsure of their legal right to walk places, so they don’t venture off the signposted route or the well trodden path. Many a walk ends in uncertainty and retreat, which is a shame since with consideration and understanding there are many places you can and should go walking.

If you want to read up or get advice you can start by looking at these websites. The Freedom to Roam idea can be confusing. It is also often forgotten that it brings responsibilities. It does however mean that large areas of Scotland are open for you to walk across, path or no path.

Scottish Outdoor Access Code

Orkney Access Forum OLAF

environmental concern Orkney

OCEAN

MCoS Access

Other guided walks

RSPB Wardens and Historic Scotland Rangers lead regular walks during the summer months, and I would encourage you to join in with these too. They are lovely people as well as knowledgeable. See local news and VisitOrkney daily information for details.

Simple Steps to responsible access and conserving the environment

Five Senses goes beyond “leave no trace” and practices “leave it better than you find it”

• Take litter home or bin it, even if it is not yours. Carry a bag and gloves for this purpose
• Use gates and paths, don’t damage fences and make sure gates are secure after you, tie knots as found
• Climb gates only at the hinge end, cross stiles carefully
• Do not disturb animals and keep dogs on a lead, no matter how docile they may be
• Respect other land users’ needs, which may be different from your own
• Consider ground nesting birds and avoid areas where they are found in season, ask RSPB or SNH for advice
• Leave no trace, do not have fires where any damage could be caused by accidents, do not discard a match, cigarette or ember
• Do not pick plants but instead take photos or sketches and notes of habitat, to identify at home
• Alert landowner or farmer if you see animals in distress or on the road
• Be prepared to alter your plans, be flexible and enjoy yourself
• Check the weather and allow time to rest
• Be considerate if parking a vehicle, do not obstruct gates or routes
• If going into the wilder areas, leave a route card, be prepared and announce your safe return

For more advice contact malcolm@allfivesenses.com

Note regarding Grid References

I have used general / approximate grid references to help you locate the areas I’m talking about, in the hope you will look at maps and start to plan your adventures (with or without me). But what are grid references and how to read them?

Remember that a grid reference defines an area on a map, that looks like a square. The edges of the square are made from lines drawn over the map (blue lines on OS maps), called grid lines. This grid is a ‘system’ which for now you do not need worry about. Just know that it can allow specific defining of locations, just like giving latitude and longitude, or which apartment address by block.

To read a “4 figure grid reference” as I have given above, remember the first two numbers / figures are for the vertical line (runs north – south) and the second two numbers / figures are for the horizontal line.

There is no need to give the numbers of the lines on all four sides of the square because there is a convention, a rule that we always give the line to the left / west of the square, and the line below / south of the square. At least in the UK. Need help remembering that? Think L

L

Left of square and bottom of square.

So the town of Stromness could be referenced by these two grid references (because the town is long and thin, and is clearly in both squares) = 25,09 and 25,08

25 = the line to the left (look on a map and you will find these lines numbered on the edges of the map)

08 = one horizontal line, 09 = another.

These “4 figure” or 4 numbered grid references are defining an AREA and the feature or the location you are talking of can be anywhere within that square. Anywhere. That means all places within that square share the same 4 figure grid reference. And that is a square whose sides are 1 Km long by 1 Km high. A big area. 1000m x 1000m. To be more specific grid references can get more detailed, using 6, 8 or 10 numbers (down to a square 1m x 1m in size, sub-divisions of the larger square).

If you are using the same map as me (of Orkney, Scotland) you will find where I am talking about. However because the numbering of grid lines uses only two numbers (such as 2 and 5 for Stromness, making 25), lines can only be numbered from 00, 01, o2 … up to 98 and 99. The next line after 99 has to be 00 again. So, there are various places in the UK that have the same grid reference numbers. This is why you will also find letters before a full grid reference, to make it unique. For most of Orkney the letters are HY.

So, that is grid references. Read the left vertical line first, then the horizontal line underneath the square.

Orkney is always atmospheric, memorable and surprising – a land of history preserved in stone, protected by distance and heritage, and now open to exploration – right on our doorstep. Here are some of the favourite places we love:

Broch of Gurness

The Iron Age Broch of Gurness in Orkney, north Scotland

The Broch of Gurness is one of the best preserved broch sites in Britain. Some brochs may be taller (a broch is a round tower with double walls, found mostly in northern Scotland, around the coast), but at Gurness there are the amazingly well preserved outer defences and the buildings of a village huddled around it . Most impressive of all is still being allowed to go right inside the site, touch the stones and explore. A beautiful setting too – this site was a highlight of touring Orkney.

Kirkwall

Kirkwall Main Street early, before the crowds

Kirkwall is the main town in Orkney - the capital town, with a population around the 7,000 mark. This number is swelled by all the 19,000 or so residents in Orkney, who come from all over the many islands to shop and work and play. In the summer there are also many cruise ships calling by, passengers getting a fleeting look at the famous sites and a little bit of shopping before sailing away. It is much better to stay longer, in one of the many B&Bs, hotels, hostels or the camp ground and enjoy the nightlife too.

Notice the ice cream sign on the left – Orkney ice cream is the best – reflecting the way the cows graze tasty, fresh grass and lead healthy lives, and no doubt craftsmanship in the making too.

Stenness Standing Stones

Stenness Standing Stones in Neolithic Orkney

The Stenness Standing Stones are in the middle of the Neolithic World Heritage Site and a “must visit” site. Notice I don’t just say ‘must see’? To appreciate these stones and this site you need to get out and walk amongst them – which we can do for free! How cool is that – the oldest henge (like Stonehenge but older) in Britain, probably, and it is open access 24/7. This site holds great secrets too!

The sheep keep the grass down so watch where you step!

Birsay Shoreline

Seaweed in morning light at Birsay

One of the delights of Orkney is the amazing coastline and the life it supports. At Birsay, in the NW corner of Mainland, the biggest island, you can get really close, safely, explore rock pools and sandy beaches as you cross the tidal causeway to the Viking and Pictish village remains. This is also a good location to see sea life and sea birds, including a few elusive puffins in summer.

Take time to enjoy the detail – we try to slow down and be fully present and enjoy it as much as life allows. Beach combing or a picnic are great here too. There are also the remains of the Earl’s Palace and public toilets, up by the little shop in Birsay. At the car park there is often a wonderful burger van – recommended!

Tomb of the Eagles

The way in the "Tomb of the Eagles"

Tomb of the Eagles – a 5,000 year old chambered cairn above stunningly beautiful cliffs of South Ronaldsay (southerly island of Orkney) is so named because of the many sea eagle talons that were found there, as well as human bones, skulls, and mysterious stone objects / tools.

Best of all is that the site is privately run by the wonderful family who discovered and unearthed the site. You can get closer to the artifacts, learn more and visit the Bronze Age house also found on their land. From experience it is best to allow at least 2 hours for a visit – we had lunch there (picnic). See this blog.

Dwarfie Stane – Hoy

"Dwarfie Stane" - Rock Cut Chamber on Hoy, Orkney

The Dwarfie Stane is fantastic – the only one of its kind in Britain – it used to be the most visited site by antiquarians but is now forgotten, so we got it all to ourselves. Three people can crawl inside this huge sandstone boulder that has been hollowed out, experts think by Stone Age people using simple tools and brains. Not much else is known about it – unless you go with Malcolm, who knows secrets about the site and a lot about the surrounding area. Those tourists who do make it here only stay a moment but they are missing one of Orkney’s gems! Very special.

Skara Brae Neolithic Village

Skara Brae House in Neolithic Village, Orkney

Skara Brae Village, in west Orkney Mainland is the number one tourist attraction. This picture shows one of the “houses” as they are called of the unique village cluster, only exposed after a storm in 1850. The site has been much cleaned up and tidied now and due to visitor pressure you have to keep to the edges of the actual site. Fair enough – the site needs protecting.

This is just a taste of Orkney – yet there is so much else to see and do. I hope it helps you to decide to come and visit these amazing islands and people.

For more information see these websites:

• Visit Orkney
• Historic Scotland
• Orkneyjar
• Orcadian
• Orkney Travel

Ultimately, if you really want it bad enough, you will get it, you will master fire making … but don’t expect anyone else to do it for you … you have got to WANT to LEARN. You can read all the books and watch endless video clips … but in the end it comes down to how badly you want to do it. If you are in a real survival situation, freezing and dieing, it is a bit late to learn!

Fundamentals

Think about your fire making to date – be it camp fires, bonfires, a stove, whatever. The basics are the same:

• Water is a problem. It boils at 100 degrees C, well below the combustion temperature of wood or other fuels. As it evaporates off it takes energy with it (latent heat). Dampness means energy lost through evaporation. Water also can cause the material to rot (break down) and thus become too soft. Water also excludes a vital component of fire … oxygen.
• Oxygen - in the air, 21%, most air being Nitrogen. The air you breathe out contains approx 16% oxygen, carbon dioxide and water vapour. Your breath is moist (think of cold days) yet still has oxygen in it. Oxygen is essential for burning to occur! Not enough – it chokes, but too much air will remove the second vital component of fire – heat!
• Heat - or energy – the spark, or the ember, an existing flame or the sun, chemical or electrical. You need this energy and enough of it for combustion. Not enough and you may only warm things, to much and you have either rapid combustion or other materials start to also burn, and you have a big problem – fire out of control. Making fire is about CONTROL.
• Fuel - the material that is burning, combusting, giving off more heat and to you is the fire. Fuel has a certain amount of energy and you can release that (burn it) slowely or fast, depending whether you want an explosion, a flash in the pan or a smoulder. You control the rate of burn – but how?

The Rate of Burn is controlled by you – regulating the amount of oxygen and the size of the fuel, and how much energy is available – how much is being diverted to evaporate off moisture (say from green logs), or radiating or convecting away before it does any use / work warming fuel. (Don’t waste precious heat with a fast burning flaming fire – it looks good but all that heat is warming the atmosphere – not your next fuel which will be cold and damp. Even ‘dry’ fuel contains water!)

Think of fires you have lit, or controlled. Think of the amount of air you let in, the fuel sizes and how you managed the fire. This is it – this is what you do – except, when making fire by friction you are doing it on a mini scale … with tiny fuel, a tiny amount of heat and some amount of water moisture. There is usually plenty of air about outdoors, maybe too much (wind) – so your job is to control this environment in which your tiny amount of heat and fuel is … look after it like it is a new life … protect it, feed it and help it grow.

OK – if you have got that – you are well on your way to making fire!

Practice safely – have water to hand, maybe an extinguisher and ensure the environment around cannot accidentally become fuel itself!!! Think of the wind direction and strength – think of the consequences and what might happen. Always be in control. Never leave a fire unattended until it is totally safe to do so – and if you don’t know that, do not start a fire!

Assess the risk – have you phone connection with the emergency services? Have you a safe exit? Who and what else is potentially in danger? Get it wrong, just once in your life, and you are an arsonist. Don’t!

Fire kills – never play with fire.

Pictures showing good bowing technique

bowing technique with a guiding hand to keep spindle upright

bowing using the full length of the bow = good

Careful transfer of charred dust "ember" into centre of tinder

If you want to know more go to the Five Senses fire making courses

Now for some useful links and photos:

• Primitive Ways

The best books on the subject from my library:

Mears, Ray - Outdoor Survival Handbook

Brown, Tom - Tom Brown’s Field Guide to Wilderness Survival

Kochanski, Mors - Bush craft: Outdoor Skills and wilderness survival

Akkermans, Anthonio - Bushcraft Skills and how to survive in the wild

Grylls, Bear - Born Survivor – Survival techniques from the most dangerous …

Montgomery, David - Mountainman Crafts and Skills

Wescott, David - Primitive Technology: A book of earth skills

That’s more than enough! Good luck – and don’t give up!

I organise and lead private tours there, taking people to the best of Orkney and Shetland, using either B&B or simpler accommodation.

This is an account of the simpler way:

Watched puffins (early August) and lots of seals. Slept in the doorway of a Bod each night, caught the overnight ferry from Kirkwall and flew back from Sumburgh in a twin engine Saab. Rented a car for 3 days from Star rental, which worked well, except the car had an unpleasant smell I attributed to cleaning chemicals and the new upholstery. My nasal passages were much happier when freed of this noxious asault, to enjoy the salty air, the peat fire, the smoked salmon and seaweeds.

Cooked fresh scallops in garlic butter with a dusting of paprika, followed by reestit mutton and tatties. Ate mouthfulls of alfalfa, fruits and veggies. Made scrambled eggs and then toasted wholegrain bread with a fork, holding it close to the orange embers of the peat fire. Toasted in under 10 seconds. Smothered in unsalted butter. I didn’t eat this myself – it was for my guests!

The Bod was too hot to sleep in – thanks to the peat fire in the stove (the only source of cooking heat, except an electric kettle. So, I slep in the porch, in a sleeping bag, with the door open. Fine until 3.30 when the birds all woke up and bugled me awake. Another night was very calm so the midgies were biting and I closed the door to all but a whisper of cool air.

The “Bod“ at Skeld, best described as a cross between a bothy and a hostel, or camping barn, is a mix of modern and ancient, of electrical appliances and basic simplicity. Bods are clean and cared for, provide only mattresses (wafer thin too) on wooden bunk beds, and some like this one have electric showers, lighting and a kitchen, indoor toilets and a black stove. At £8 per person, a night (plus a £1 for electricity and £5 for a bag of peat, which lasted 2 nights continous use) they are a good alternative to b&B or self catering. The only youth hostel, being in the town of Lerwick, is functional but lacks character. Self catering is charged by the week, so is too expensive. B&Bs do not provide places to cook, and it can be tiring eating out and not having control over your diet.

For more info go to Shetland’s Bods run by Sheltand Amenity Trust (branch of the Sheltand Islands Council).

Highlights were the puffins, seals and the rugged coastline, the wonderful hospitality and good weather, making walking to Staneydale a delight with a picnic of smoked salmon, oatcakes and cheeses. Looked at Mousa broch, Clickimin broch, croft museum, Scatness, Jarlshof, Lerwick, Sumburgh Head and lots of Atlantic Ocean and North Sea water! See Doug Houton for some pictures.

Slept ok on the ferry from Kirkwall (Orkney) but the noise of the engine and thrusters took some getting used to. Never the less, it was mighty convenient to have a shower in my cabin and get breakfast before leaving the ferry at 9am. The only downside was being woken at 6.30 am to be told, by a loud announcement, that breakfast was now being served – a totally unnecessary disturbance that wakes everyone! This is followed at 7.30 am by the announcement that we have docked, and a number of other messages for the car drivers (who have to leave and remove their cars – at least they are allowed back on board for breakfast). So, not enough rest for this wicked person. Please will Northlink Ferries cease this practice of waking everyone to promote breakfast sales and let us tired drivers sleep one more delightful hour of cosy dreams? Please.

26/8/08 Here is a blog i just read, about a 6 day tour of Orkney & Shetland, which you might find interesting. Everyone in tourism should read and analyse this fascinating insight into a visitors experience.

I have taken the opportunity of snow to contrast against the limbs, thus showing up the tree shape better – and making some cool patterns in the bargain. All pictures were taken on the 10th Feb 2009, with cold hands. I hope you enjoy!

Sycamores and St Magnus Cathedral

Sycamores and St Magnus Cathedral, Kirkwall, Orkney

Windswept Sycamore near Maeshowe Chambered Cairn / Tomb

Windswept sycamore near Maeshowe, Orkney

Sycamore sheltered in Finstown

Sycamore sheltered in Finstown, looking south

Track through Binscarth – Orkney’s largest wood

track through Binscarth - Orkney's largest wood

Not only Willows and Sycamore

One of many palm trees in Kirkwall

A bonus of exploring Orkney woodland

ice water hidden amidst the trees

The sun came out at Redland

sun catching the plantation at Redland

Five minutes later, brrr

Snow forces me to retreat into woods for shelter

Trees leaning towards the light in Binscarth

trees leaning towards the light in Binscarth

The sky above and branches outlined

Trees when viewed looking straight upwards

Going home!

Binscarth - note the prevailing wind sculpted canopy

There you go. I’ll be out more, but the snow is melting, and in summer it will look quite different when all the leaves are out and the many willows are all bushy too.

So, don’t let anyone say again that trees do not grown in Orkney – here is the proof!

For pictures of the Standing Stones in snow, click here

Back in the house, our numb feet began to thaw as we wrapped our hands around a mug of hot tea and watched as Malcolm demonstrated how the Neolithic people of Orkney made fire. After a quick lesson, which was interrupted when a hen harrier hovered inches from the window (wildlife always finds you when you’re least expecting it), it was our turn to create nature’s more basic yet elusive element.

First we constructed a tinder nest by tying a tight knot of dried grass, thumbing it out into a cup-shape and lining it with cotton grass. We then crouched over a long, flat piece of wood with an indentation and a notch, while Malcolm wound a wooden spindle into a primitive bow made from a branch and a rope. I clamped the wood with my newly-thawed foot, steadied the spindle with my left hand (using two limpet shells as a bearing) and held the bow with my right, while my friend Rachel grasped the other end of the bow. The idea was to push and pull the bow, thus spinning the spindle and creating enough friction to generate heat. It was trickier than it looked, but after a few wobbly attempts we saw smoke – lovely thick curls of smoke as the charred dust fell onto a piece of goat skin under the notch. After letting this smoke happily away to itself for a few minutes we gingerly tipped the embers into our tinder nests. Cupping our hands around our nests we then blew gently until the smoke grew thicker and a orange glow appeared. “This is it,” whispered Malcolm, “now take one deep breath and blow gently at first, then harder…” We did as we were told and within seconds were holding our very own flaming ball of fire in our hands. It was a truly a magical moment, exhilarating but a little bit scary. After much whooping we dropped the flaming nest and extinguished our handiwork in one quick step. Strangely satisfied, we were left babbling and smiley and smelling nicely of campfires.

Visit www.allfivesenses.com or wait for the August issue of the magazine to find read more…

Sat, 02/05/2009 – 23:42

Submitted by Joanna Tinsley

Go to BBC Countryfile Blog for more of Joanna’s adventures in Orkney.

I am passionate about the lost art and science of what is termed “Natural Navigation“, or ‘emergency navigation’ – the skill or reading nature’s clues to find your way without map, compass, gps or signposts.

Moon at dusk can guide navigation when you are lost

To start you off, here are my favourite books on the subject, which you can all find online. My favourite is Harold Gatty’s Finding Your Way – a classic.

You will understand why I call my business Five Senses, and why walking barefoot has great advantages to learning to read the landscape. Based as I am in the north of Scotland, I believe in teaching people to read and understand their local environment, so not all techniques are applicable in your area (sand dunes are not so common here, nor trees but what there is has been well sculpted by the prevailing winds!)

Have a look at the books:-

Gatty, Harold – Finding your way without map or compass

Aveni, Anthony – People and the sky

Burch, David – Emergency Navigation

Wilson, Neil – SAS Tracking and navigation handbook

Grylls, Bear – Born survivor / Man v Wild – survival techniques …

Thomas, Stephen – Last Navigator

Cunliffe, Tom – Celestial Navigation

Aventi

Gatty

Note – I will be reviewing The Natural Navigator, by Tristan Gooley, so it is not yet added here – but it is an excellent book. Details to follow.

It is all about using your senses, being aware and observing – skills that need to be taught and developed – technology has made us lazy. Just like my other passion, making fire. For courses and private info, you can email me.

Fire by friction - a helping hand from the survival instructor

Mears, Ray – Outdoor Survival Handbook

Brown, Tom – Tom Brown’s Field Guide to Wilderness Survival

Kochanski, Mors – Bushcraft: Outdoor Skills and wilderness survival

Gatty, Harold – Finding your way without map or compass

Akkermans, Anthonio – Bushcraft Skills and how to survive in the wild

Mabey, Richard – Food for Free

Wiseman, John – SAS Survival Handbook

Grylls, Bear – Born Survivor – Survival techniques from the most dangerous …

Montgomery, David – Mountainman Crafts and Skills

Wescott, David – Primitive Technology: A book of earth skills

These books are easily accessible, cheap and well written with clear diagrams and instruction. Not one is perfect and in the end you still have to put the work in and get your hands dirty – but these have been well tested. The authors often have other books but I like these as being down to earth and not of the “coffee table” type. Comments or suggestions are welcome, if you have other books you woud strongly argue for, I’d like to hear.

Follow the links for more info on the books – links to Amazon.co.uk or write to me for advice.

I live in the Orkney Islands in Northern Scotland and specialise in natural navigation, survival in hostile environments, wild foods, shelters without wood and practical problem solving (ie, when it is not written in a book).

Enjoying reading without electricity

Friday …

Worked like crazy to get the new Five Senses website live by 11pm (official start time of POW, when the electricity is turned off for 48 hours). Totally mad – but we did it, except for the Bushcraft & Survival pages!

Just past midnight we powered off to bed by candle light.

A box of matches symbolically placed by the bed ‘just in case’. The second POW had begun. I smiled and slept deep.

Saturday …

Sunshine and light very early. Warm too – not like the December Power Off.

Walked around the house naked – no hurry, no biting cold.

First thoughts – hot water, to make tea and porridge. Stood in the kitchen I remembered there was to be no electricity. Used the camping gas burner. Easy, if slow. Looked around as water warmed slowly, thought the floor could use a vacuum – dusty – then realised I should brush it instead but I couldn’t be arsed.

After breakfast I set off up the drive to meet the walkers for my Hidden Gems of Orkney walk (second Saturday in the month – introducing them to unknown and wonderful parts of Orkney). Explored eroded cliffs and the beach (scoured by the recent storm), in the Hall of Clestrain (exploring ruins) and building temporary stepping stones for the group to cross streams. Larger versions of childhood games. A cool breeze but sunny.

Afternoon at home. Rachel looked very happy and relaxed.

My mind starts to think ‘food’ which means cooking … but need to do washing up left from last night’s marathon writing session … that needs hot water … needs fire … needs fuel … must saw up wood, so I need to get moving as nothing would happen instantly, at the flick of a switch. However, it all seemed so much easier than the December POW when it was freezing and I had to burn all the driftwood to keep one room warm. This time was far more relaxed. The sun gave enough warmth. A good reminder that it was the Equinox.

Sunshine on the pages of my book making me smile with joy – sunlight so appreciated – feeling of great happiness, love, alive!

Evening. Sun close to setting. We are lucky with the weather but also more appreciative of the sun, it’s light, warmth, presence, life. Now is the Equinox, the sun is out west over Hoy Sound, dropping behind clouds over Stromness, directly west of here. Simple, profound relationships of time, seasons and directions, with the Sun and a spinning Earth.

Earlier I used a sun dial to tell the time but it was out of sync with human time by 40 minutes. Nice to realise I don’t need to know ‘the time’ today – I am in ‘holiday mode’, not knowing or worrying what time it is. No visible clocks or watches in the house … unless I dig into my rucksack or look at the mobile phone (which I did earlier). The sun is starting to be time again, dusk is falling. TV schedules can all wait.

We use three vacuum flasks so tea brewing is made easier whenever there is a fire. They work well – a good supply of hot water and means I don’t need to tend the fire so often (driftwood and peat) unlike December! A wood buring stove would be so good though. Note to everyone, get a stove, with a flat top. That with a good pipe to vent should be a basic of all houses, so even if not used much it is there for emergencies like power cuts. Much more fuel efficient and burns paper bricks, driftwood, garden cuttings, anything if push comes to shove.

Too early to light candles but light fading – I sit right by the window reading by twilight to the last possible minute, book facing flat out to west like a solar panel or flower for maximum light. Room is calm without electricity. People are naive to think we burn lots of candles to replace electric light (low energy bulbs of course) because in the most part we are enjoying sunlight, the flickering flames of a real fire and I am quite delighted by my navigational prowess in negotiating rooms in the dark:

Choosing tea by smell in stead of lighting up, using my sense of touch often, and listening for when a kettle is coming to boil or when a hot water bottle is near full with the hot water I’m pouring. Sounds, smells, textures all coming to prominence in the gentler light. You must try it to feel it.

Light first candle. Put white sheet of paper behind it to reflect light into room. So simple but effective.

So peaceful in the house – sound of wood crackling in the fire, birds twittering outside.

Eat bacon, eggs, mushrooms, bread and now next cup of tea … slight smoky taste, wonderful. Almost feels like bed time but still not fully dark. Fun

Navigation – Crescent moon in the West, high above the ocean, casting light through this window. Went outside to pee, which is easier outside in the dark. Fantastic sky! All the main constellations very clear with a bright moon giving good light to see by and also hiding the smaller stars, leaving only the brightest. Leo, Gemini, Orion, Cassiopeia and the others all prominent. Moon pointing towards South quite nicely.

Happy reading. Kind of miss watching a film though.

Went to bed, time unknown, but too sleepy to read more. Fell asleep quickly.

Sunday …

Awoke in the night … stars … but not sleeping well … bad dream … so get up later in a low mood. Light gas, boil water, porridge, tea and then a bit more bacon and egg. Twice in 24 hours! Go wild.

Swept floor of conservatory and kitchen with dustpan and brush. Did my daily poo inspection (shocking, I’ll skip the details). Makes me notice I’m feeling a bit off, weak, light headed. Opt to treat for dehydration. Head is fuzzy so finding talk and ideas hard to enjoy. Drinking water.

Think R is distracted then realise it is probably me. Walked outside barefoot onto the grass, opening my awareness. My book reading marathon has taken me away from R for too long. Need to play

We talk about how hard it is to relax, to have weekends off work, especially when self employed and self motivated. How society is requiring people to work more, consume more, be forever active, no time to really rest. Even holidays have to be ‘earned’ by excessive hours before and afterwards, effectively eating into that rest time. And people don’t get enough sleep!

Great to  contrast the two POWs, December and March. I’m keen to now do June, September and Dec again. This time there is so much more daylight, the air is warmer, the sun also providing warmth this time, even at 59 degrees North. Again it is so good to be aware of the sun’s journey across the sky, setting West, Equinox really means something. Not in a religious or spiritual way, as such but observational, scientific … this is reality, it does this whether you notice it or not. The world spins in orbit of the sun, the moon orbiting Earth, tides ebb and flow. I like being aware of my place in the universe, I feel more self-confidence and happiness as a result.

Time to play Ticket to Ride. Set up in conservatory, where there is enough warmth from the sun, sheltered from the wind. Start to feel better, gradually. Drink more water.

Win the game. I go and make soup. Lentils been soaking overnight in the dirty pressure cooker – my idea to save washing up, so looks pretty ugly, with remains of venison stew (sorry my dear vegetarian friends). Cook over gas again because pressure cooker not good over naked flame, anyway it boils quickly and job is done with little fuel used. Cook veg including the defrosted peas and sweetcorn . Yummy. Feels super healthy, esp after the previous bacon fest and fat.

Pet watching – two cats, one mouse. Comical. I’m smiling again. At sea there are seals, ducks, calm water.

R is at the spinning wheel in the conservatory, I’m gonna light the fire.

Took photos of the setting sun between 6 and 6.30pm together with the moon high in the South West. Beautiful light blue sky with powdery clouds like the end of an avalanche, covering the moon. Then she is back.

Cooked over wood fire – mashed potato with mackerel and cabbage, in the skillet. Simple but tasty.

Light is fading, so again I’m using all the remaining precious light. I know we would normally have lights on now, if we were using electricity, but really it seems that is all about fear, fighting the dark, like it is bad, evil. Now it seems lovely and calming to be here as the sun fades and to welcome the night. I am safe in my own home after all. I have nothing to fear. The night is beautiful.

I lament the loss of ‘darkness’ (the gentle light of lamp and fire and candle) nowadays, replaced by a blaze of continual brightness, only ended when I close my eyes. How unnatural, limiting, sterile. It is hard if this is how you were brought up. Harder still if you were scared as a child with stories of monsters, evil, things unknown. Stories that controlled children for so long seem to limit us now we have the technology to fill the night with reassuring light. Am I the only one to think this? I remember the street lights being switched off at night and the world sleeping, except the owls and their companions. This seemed as natural as the sun setting and switching off lights. But nowadays we live in perpetual light, whole towns lit, shops, advertising, security cameras searching … fear on the one hand, commerce and consumption on the other. Convenience but at what price, I ask?

Monday …

Day three – We are in no hurry to switch the power back on.

It was fun last night washing up with water boiled over the wood fire, in the kitchen with one candle, memories of Ferry Farm.

This morning, flasks of water still nice and warm from last night too so I am quick on the porridge, green tea and juice situation.

Delighted the day is grey, windy and damp – shows what a good weekend it was – sun, stars, low wind. Very lucky.

Finished book last night around midnight. Excellent stuff. But late to bed. Awoken in the night by sound of rapid tapping on roof, driving us mad. Tried to ignore but just couldn’t sleep – ended up having to half crawl out onto roof to fix … a roof tile seems to have broken.

Lit fire for warmth and mood … last bits of wood, not enough to last the day, maybe 3 hours at most. There is some outside I can go cut up, later. First to cook lunch – lots of vegetables for health. Food supplies low. Now we are vegetarian until I next go shopping.

Little desire to turn electricity back on.

We recognise now the importance of the power being turned off completely (for us anyway) like having no chocolate or cigarettes I guess. The temptation when the power is back on to “just do stuff” is strongly ingrained in us. It is so much easier to relax when you know the power is off. We talk of the tendency to overdo things unless breaks are forced upon us (even by ourselves – hell, who else is going to help us if we are otherwise dumb enough to overwork?) – the compulsion to be doing things, socially productive things - so we talked about things like meditation, yoga, rest, weekends – and the struggle in today’s society to ‘do nothing’. Even when physically inactive we are under pressure to be doing things – thinking – or imputing data (reading or watching TV). Even meditation is a trendy label. I also just like being still, in nature, beside the fire.

I measure the temperature in the fridge: 10 deg C, the same as elsewhere in the house, except this one room we live in, with the fire. It is 19 deg C in here. Still drafts as the fire sucks air from under the door and through cracks in the walls but comfortable.

Sun comes out as it rolls over Stromness. The room temp reaches 21 degrees. Too warm.

We decide the best way to welcome electricity back into our lives is to watch 6 Nations rugby! So we start up the internet, there are beeps and the fridge grumbles into life, and we get the good old BBC iplayer going, watch Wales, then Scotland.

The stove remains off. This big dinosaur of a beast that consumes electricity like the antithesis of a power station. For now, we prefer to be cool and eating frugally. Some day a wind turbine will power it for ‘free’ but not now, not this day.

I think back to the sounds of the weekend … the kettle singing a rising scale to tell me when the water neared boiling, no electric kettle has ever sounded so beautiful with its impatient roar … I think of the sunlight changing throughout the day but mostly as it faded gradually at dusk, or the shadows moving as we walked to bed with candle in hand, and no house has felt alive like that beneath the constancy of electric light.

Don’t get me wrong, electricity is amazing, truly astounding and near magical – and precious … but it is not everything and we can have so much more if we have both light and dark … and all the shades in between. We can have electric guitars and synthesisers but there is still beauty and joy in violin and drum, the chirping of a skylark or the sighing of the wind.

The next Power Off weekend is in June 19-20. I hope some of you will join us. See the Facebook Group for details.

The first draft of this diary were typed up to my Play2Survive blog.

All the Power Off writing is on our Touchwood Project website.