When I first came to Orkney over 10 years ago, I was not impressed by the apparent walking opportunities. It has taken me years of exploring but now I can proudly say that has changed. I have found fantastic places to go, many off the beaten track where few, even locals, tread.
Orkney inland is dominated by fields of grass with fences of barbed wire or electricity, and more picturesque dry-stone walls.
I came from a background of exploring mountains of Wales, Scotland, Iceland, Europe and America. Big places with drama and diversity. Finding the great walks takes a little more effort – but it is worth it!
The obvious walking is around the coastline and starting from Stromness there are great coastal options.
There is Ness Point, walking out of the town past the golf course and along to the Warebeth beach. You can continue along the coastline north, as far as Yesnaby, Skaill Bay (Skara Brae) and on to Birsay. Not in one day but it is possible and best with a following wind.
What I first encountered all those years ago was peedie (small) walks, often to view an ancient site then return to the car park. OK for car based folks unused to walking far but not very rewarding for me and not getting me close to nature, away from the crowds.
I like many was initially drawn to the cliffs in the west, to Yesnaby and Marwick, for drama. Then later to north Hoy. But what about inland? What about connecting these walks together, to form endless opportunities?
The walks in Orkney are spectacular! It is just not too obvious for visitors where else they can go, how to extend routes, turn them into day long circular walks, or how to avoid fences and irate bulls.
What should one do and not do? Signposts are cropping up, slowly but it is not obvious how to explore freely, without following a procession of other people.
This is where a local walking guide comes in handy.
It never gets very warm or very cold but the wind can make you feel chilled, so always bring a woolly hat, windproof jacket, sunglasses and comfortable footwear. That will keep you warm and able to stay out for hours, summer or winter. Imagine a temperature of 10 – 15 degrees C. It does not get far above 20 degrees, ever, nor much below freezing in winter. Honest.
To feel really comfortable walking in Orkney you best have either prior knowledge or some form of guide, leaflet or map. For all but the simplest (and most walked) routes, some basic map reading ability would help you a lot. There are many places you can legally walk but I will try to help you feel more comfortable and relaxed too.
I am a qualified walking leader, geographer and teacher of outdoor skills, including navigation. I specialise in walking routes others don’t know or use, and evening and night walks, including natural navigation / star gazing. I live in West Mainland, Orkney.
I lead walks for all ages and abilities, encouraging long stops for views, rests in the heather and diversions to see what is round the corner. It is my job to adapt to you and your style, fitness and interests. I watch the weather and the time, whilst you enjoy yourselves.
Over the coming weeks I shall expand upon this blog and give detailed information about my selection of the best walks to discover Orkney by.
First, let me introduce a few classics to start you off:
Here are few of the obvious walking locations. This is a list I will add to over the days and expand upon. Place names can be common, so I give grid references as general locational aides. Use online maps to locate, and ask me for guidance. [Note re Grid References, see bottom page]
The list can go on and on but you get the idea. We have but scratched the surface, however the best walks need planning, weather awareness and transport sorted out, which is why few of these and my other favourite walks get described much. I would love to take you on them, show you what Orkney really has to offer, including meadows, lanes and gardens.
Why not plan before you intend to get going but without spending money or travelling with lots of extra maps, books, and unnecessary guides.
There are many and you will have your favourite but Multimap is good because you can view using the topographical Ordnance Survey maps: The best for walking in Orkney and the ones you’d buy to carry with you. So check them out online first, for free.
For detail, the 1:25,000 scale is best (shows field boundaries, fences, important if walking in Orkney countryside). This is not of much use to you unless you can read a map though. The 1:50,000 scale is an all purpose map packed with information but of limited use when walking other than on the most obvious tracks open hillside and coastline. If you have any doubts write to me for advice.
If you do want to price up the maps in preparation, there are below but please also think to buy them here in Orkney and help local business.
Orkney Islands Council walking info – incomplete but still useful
4 Popular walks: Marwick Bay, Yesnaby, Deerness Gloup and Birsay
Geograph Pictures all over the UK
Many people can be unsure of their legal right to walk places, so they don’t venture off the signposted route or the well trodden path. Many a walk ends in uncertainty and retreat, which is a shame since with consideration and understanding there are many places you can and should go walking.
If you want to read up or get advice you can start by looking at these websites. The Freedom to Roam idea can be confusing. It is also often forgotten that it brings responsibilities. It does however mean that large areas of Scotland are open for you to walk across, path or no path.
RSPB Wardens and Historic Scotland Rangers lead regular walks during the summer months, and I would encourage you to join in with these too. They are lovely people as well as knowledgeable. See local news and VisitOrkney daily information for details.
Five Senses goes beyond “leave no trace” and practices “leave it better than you find it”
For more advice contact malcolm@allfivesenses.com
I have used general / approximate grid references to help you locate the areas I’m talking about, in the hope you will look at maps and start to plan your adventures (with or without me). But what are grid references and how to read them?
Remember that a grid reference defines an area on a map, that looks like a square. The edges of the square are made from lines drawn over the map (blue lines on OS maps), called grid lines. This grid is a ‘system’ which for now you do not need worry about. Just know that it can allow specific defining of locations, just like giving latitude and longitude, or which apartment address by block.
To read a “4 figure grid reference” as I have given above, remember the first two numbers / figures are for the vertical line (runs north – south) and the second two numbers / figures are for the horizontal line.
There is no need to give the numbers of the lines on all four sides of the square because there is a convention, a rule that we always give the line to the left / west of the square, and the line below / south of the square. At least in the UK. Need help remembering that? Think L
L
Left of square and bottom of square.
So the town of Stromness could be referenced by these two grid references (because the town is long and thin, and is clearly in both squares) = 25,09 and 25,08
25 = the line to the left (look on a map and you will find these lines numbered on the edges of the map)
08 = one horizontal line, 09 = another.
These “4 figure” or 4 numbered grid references are defining an AREA and the feature or the location you are talking of can be anywhere within that square. Anywhere. That means all places within that square share the same 4 figure grid reference. And that is a square whose sides are 1 Km long by 1 Km high. A big area. 1000m x 1000m. To be more specific grid references can get more detailed, using 6, 8 or 10 numbers (down to a square 1m x 1m in size, sub-divisions of the larger square).
If you are using the same map as me (of Orkney, Scotland) you will find where I am talking about. However because the numbering of grid lines uses only two numbers (such as 2 and 5 for Stromness, making 25), lines can only be numbered from 00, 01, o2 … up to 98 and 99. The next line after 99 has to be 00 again. So, there are various places in the UK that have the same grid reference numbers. This is why you will also find letters before a full grid reference, to make it unique. For most of Orkney the letters are HY.
So, that is grid references. Read the left vertical line first, then the horizontal line underneath the square.
Here are some of Orkney’s many wonderful places to visit – from a tour with Malcolm.
Orkney is always atmospheric, memorable and surprising – a land of history preserved in stone, protected by distance and heritage, and now open to exploration – right on our doorstep. Here are some of the favourite places we love:
The Iron Age Broch of Gurness in Orkney, north Scotland
The Broch of Gurness is one of the best preserved broch sites in Britain. Some brochs may be taller (a broch is a round tower with double walls, found mostly in northern Scotland, around the coast), but at Gurness there are the amazingly well preserved outer defences and the buildings of a village huddled around it . Most impressive of all is still being allowed to go right inside the site, touch the stones and explore. A beautiful setting too – this site was a highlight of touring Orkney.
Kirkwall Main Street early, before the crowds
Kirkwall is the main town in Orkney - the capital town, with a population around the 7,000 mark. This number is swelled by all the 19,000 or so residents in Orkney, who come from all over the many islands to shop and work and play. In the summer there are also many cruise ships calling by, passengers getting a fleeting look at the famous sites and a little bit of shopping before sailing away. It is much better to stay longer, in one of the many B&Bs, hotels, hostels or the camp ground and enjoy the nightlife too.
Notice the ice cream sign on the left – Orkney ice cream is the best – reflecting the way the cows graze tasty, fresh grass and lead healthy lives, and no doubt craftsmanship in the making too.
Stenness Standing Stones in Neolithic Orkney
The Stenness Standing Stones are in the middle of the Neolithic World Heritage Site and a “must visit” site. Notice I don’t just say ‘must see’? To appreciate these stones and this site you need to get out and walk amongst them – which we can do for free! How cool is that – the oldest henge (like Stonehenge but older) in Britain, probably, and it is open access 24/7. This site holds great secrets too!
The sheep keep the grass down so watch where you step!
Seaweed in morning light at Birsay
One of the delights of Orkney is the amazing coastline and the life it supports. At Birsay, in the NW corner of Mainland, the biggest island, you can get really close, safely, explore rock pools and sandy beaches as you cross the tidal causeway to the Viking and Pictish village remains. This is also a good location to see sea life and sea birds, including a few elusive puffins in summer.
Take time to enjoy the detail – we try to slow down and be fully present and enjoy it as much as life allows. Beach combing or a picnic are great here too. There are also the remains of the Earl’s Palace and public toilets, up by the little shop in Birsay. At the car park there is often a wonderful burger van – recommended!
The way in the "Tomb of the Eagles"
Tomb of the Eagles – a 5,000 year old chambered cairn above stunningly beautiful cliffs of South Ronaldsay (southerly island of Orkney) is so named because of the many sea eagle talons that were found there, as well as human bones, skulls, and mysterious stone objects / tools.
Best of all is that the site is privately run by the wonderful family who discovered and unearthed the site. You can get closer to the artifacts, learn more and visit the Bronze Age house also found on their land. From experience it is best to allow at least 2 hours for a visit – we had lunch there (picnic). See this blog.
"Dwarfie Stane" - Rock Cut Chamber on Hoy, Orkney
The Dwarfie Stane is fantastic – the only one of its kind in Britain – it used to be the most visited site by antiquarians but is now forgotten, so we got it all to ourselves. Three people can crawl inside this huge sandstone boulder that has been hollowed out, experts think by Stone Age people using simple tools and brains. Not much else is known about it – unless you go with Malcolm, who knows secrets about the site and a lot about the surrounding area. Those tourists who do make it here only stay a moment but they are missing one of Orkney’s gems! Very special.
Skara Brae House in Neolithic Village, Orkney
Skara Brae Village, in west Orkney Mainland is the number one tourist attraction. This picture shows one of the “houses” as they are called of the unique village cluster, only exposed after a storm in 1850. The site has been much cleaned up and tidied now and due to visitor pressure you have to keep to the edges of the actual site. Fair enough – the site needs protecting.
This is just a taste of Orkney – yet there is so much else to see and do. I hope it helps you to decide to come and visit these amazing islands and people.
For more information see these websites:
I took photographs of some of the trees growing on Mainland, the largest of the Orkney Islands, for two reasons: To show that trees do grow in Orkney and to show how they cope with the strong winds and shorter growing season (sunlight).
I have taken the opportunity of snow to contrast against the limbs, thus showing up the tree shape better – and making some cool patterns in the bargain. All pictures were taken on the 10th Feb 2009, with cold hands. I hope you enjoy!
Sycamores and St Magnus Cathedral
Sycamores and St Magnus Cathedral, Kirkwall, Orkney
Windswept Sycamore near Maeshowe Chambered Cairn / Tomb
Windswept sycamore near Maeshowe, Orkney
Sycamore sheltered in Finstown
Sycamore sheltered in Finstown, looking south
Track through Binscarth – Orkney’s largest wood
track through Binscarth - Orkney's largest wood
Not only Willows and Sycamore
One of many palm trees in Kirkwall
A bonus of exploring Orkney woodland
ice water hidden amidst the trees
The sun came out at Redland
sun catching the plantation at Redland
Five minutes later, brrr
Snow forces me to retreat into woods for shelter
Trees leaning towards the light in Binscarth
trees leaning towards the light in Binscarth
The sky above and branches outlined
Trees when viewed looking straight upwards
Going home!
Binscarth - note the prevailing wind sculpted canopy
There you go. I’ll be out more, but the snow is melting, and in summer it will look quite different when all the leaves are out and the many willows are all bushy too.
So, don’t let anyone say again that trees do not grown in Orkney – here is the proof!
For pictures of the Standing Stones in snow, click here
It was 8oC and it was hammering it down. Yet here I was, fully gortexed-up, barefoot on a beach on Orkney and heading for the sea. After a lifetime of stomping about the countryside in hiking boots, walking barefoot is a strange, but bizarrely enjoyable, experience. “Walking barefoot is a metaphor for how we should treat our environment,” explained our guide for the day, Malcolm Handoll from Five Senses, who had just persuaded us to throw off our socks and shoes and head down to the rocky, seaweed-covered beach in the rain. “It teaches you to tread carefully and engage with nature rather than trample all over it.” It also teaches you that that’s no stranger sensation than feeling bubbles of bladderwrack between your toes and, more conclusively, that when you’re at a latitude parallel with St Petersburg, the sea is painfully cold.
Back in the house, our numb feet began to thaw as we wrapped our hands around a mug of hot tea and watched as Malcolm demonstrated how the Neolithic people of Orkney made fire. After a quick lesson, which was interrupted when a hen harrier hovered inches from the window (wildlife always finds you when you’re least expecting it), it was our turn to create nature’s more basic yet elusive element.
First we constructed a tinder nest by tying a tight knot of dried grass, thumbing it out into a cup-shape and lining it with cotton grass. We then crouched over a long, flat piece of wood with an indentation and a notch, while Malcolm wound a wooden spindle into a primitive bow made from a branch and a rope. I clamped the wood with my newly-thawed foot, steadied the spindle with my left hand (using two limpet shells as a bearing) and held the bow with my right, while my friend Rachel grasped the other end of the bow. The idea was to push and pull the bow, thus spinning the spindle and creating enough friction to generate heat. It was trickier than it looked, but after a few wobbly attempts we saw smoke – lovely thick curls of smoke as the charred dust fell onto a piece of goat skin under the notch. After letting this smoke happily away to itself for a few minutes we gingerly tipped the embers into our tinder nests. Cupping our hands around our nests we then blew gently until the smoke grew thicker and a orange glow appeared. “This is it,” whispered Malcolm, “now take one deep breath and blow gently at first, then harder…” We did as we were told and within seconds were holding our very own flaming ball of fire in our hands. It was a truly a magical moment, exhilarating but a little bit scary. After much whooping we dropped the flaming nest and extinguished our handiwork in one quick step. Strangely satisfied, we were left babbling and smiley and smelling nicely of campfires.
Visit www.allfivesenses.com or wait for the August issue of the magazine to find read more…
Sat, 02/05/2009 – 23:42
Go to BBC Countryfile Blog for more of Joanna’s adventures in Orkney.
